Do you dislike your rough-textured skin with old scars or dark spots? Have you started to observe subtle signs of aging, such as faint lines forming near the outer edges of your eyes? I present to you microneedling, a non-surgical remedy to your problem.
While most non-surgical treatments use heat, light, or chemicals, microneedling is done using microneedling needles to create micro-injuries, naturally stimulating your skin to heal and renew itself.
Unlike other non-surgical facelifts, microneeding can be done personally in the comfort of your home. That’s why it is critical to understand microneedling needles' depth, gauge, and safety tips. Let’s get into it!
Understanding Microneedling
This is a minimally invasive aesthetic procedure that uses ultra-fine needles to make controlled micro-punctures on the skin’s surface. These tiny channels activate the skin’s natural repair mechanisms, boosting the creation of collagen and elastin proteins that help the skin appear firmer, smoother, and more youthful.
Microneedling also promotes the removal of dull, blemished, sun-damaged, or acne-scarred outer layers of skin.
Choosing the right microneedling needle by matching the depth, gauge, quality, and tool type to your specific skin concern, while prioritizing safety and sterility, is crucial. Let's explore the different depths and gauges:
Microneedling Depth
Microneedling depth is a crucial consideration in achieving the best results from this popular skincare technique. Here’s what you should know:
1. Shallow Microneedling (0.25mm - 0.5mm)
Due to its shallow depth, a 0.25mm - 0.5mm microneedling needle is more gentle to the skin. This depth is enough to stimulate the body’s natural collagen and elastin production while ensuring minimal to no significant pain or downtime.
At this level of penetration, the skin becomes more absorbent, allowing it to take in active ingredients such as serums containing hyaluronic acid more effectively.. That’s why shallow microneedling is recommended for enhancing product absorption, improving skin texture, reducing fine lines, and making the tone appear brighter over time.
A 0.5 mm microneedle is a standout microneedling equipment option for home use. It is recommended because it hits the sweet spot enough to boost collagen, yet shallow enough to ensure safety and quick healing. It also offers great results even without professional supervision, only requiring proper sanitization and gentle use. It is ideal for those who want to elevate their skincare game with minimal hassle and downtime.
2. Medium Microneedling (0.5mm-1.0mm)
This depth addresses deeper skin concerns like moderate acne scars, hyperpigmentation, and pronounced fine lines. A 0.5mm - 1.00 mm depth stimulates collagen and elastin production deep in the dermis, improving skin texture and tone.
Microneedling at this depth is accompanied by slight redness and sensitivity. Medium-depth microneedling tools create controlled micro-channels, allowing serum absorption to this depth.
3. Deep Microneedling (1.0mm-2.5mm)
This needle depth is used in microneedling procedures aimed at treating severe skin issues like deep acne scars, pronounced stretch marks, and deeper wrinkles. 1.00mm - 2.5mm needles, reaching into the deeper layers of the dermis, powerfully activate collagen production, which leads to noticeable enhancements in skin smoothness and elasticity.
Unlike shallow treatments, deep microneedling can yield easily noticeable results after just one professional session. However, deep microneedling is typically more uncomfortable, has extended downtime, and requires careful post-microneedling care.
Following an intensive microneedling session, many individuals notice mild bleeding, redness, and swelling as part of the skin’s natural healing response. But these side effects only last for a few days to at most a week before the patients resume normal activities.
Microneedling Gauge
When investing in microneedling equipment, it is important to understand the needle gauge. The term 'gauge' describes the width or size of each needle used in microneedling. For those asking, does microneedling hurt? The answer lies in the gauge used. The smaller the gauge, the less you are to experience pain and take time to recover.
Choosing the right thickness also helps reduce the risk of injury and avoids the need to later search for how to fix microneedling damage. The common gauge range used for home microneedling face routine is from 30-36.
Thinner needles glide more easily through the skin with less drag, while thicker needles may penetrate more forcefully. If not professionally placed, thicker needles can lead to skin damage due to scratching, dragging, and ripping.
A 30-32 gauge range is slightly thicker but ideal for mild microneedling equipment. Such equipment is used on stubborn fine lines like those on the outer corner of the eyes, forehead, between the eyes, smile lines, and necklines. They are also suitable microneedling tools for hyperpigmentation.
A 33-36 gauge range is surprisingly thinner than a 30-32 gauge. This is due to the fact that a higher gauge number indicates a finer, slimmer needle, while a lower gauge corresponds to a thicker one. This thinner gauge has less trauma, making it better for sensitive skin, e.g., under the eyes and lips.
The microneedling session routine of a thinner and a thicker microneedling needle is different. A thinner gauge treatment is performed weekly for ongoing skin maintenance. When using larger needles, treatments are typically scheduled every 3 to 6 weeks to give the skin enough time to rebuild collagen.
Other Considerations When Selecting a Microneedling Needle
1. The Device type
If you want to enhance comfort and safety during microneedling, then it is key that you understand the types of microneedling devices:
1. Derma roller: It is a handheld microneedling device with a roller head covered in tiny needles. They are ideal for at-home users who are beginners to microneedling. It is affordable and easy to use. It’s effective for enhancing skin smoothness, reducing fine wrinkles, and addressing thinning hair. If not used gently, it may hurt badly for those asking, Does microneedling hurt?
2. Microneedling pen: It uses a motorized stamping motion that enhances control and consistent depth injections. It can be customized to adjust the needle length and speed of piercing. Microneedling works well for fading pigmentation, smoothing out acne scars, and minimizing fine lines. It is available for both home and professional clinics.
3. Stamp Tool: This is a manual device used to press needles into specific areas of the skin. It is mostly used for stubborn acne scars or dark spots. It is mostly used during post-microneedling care routines to support skin recovery in the targeted zone.
2. Number of Needles
The number of needles plays an important role in the success of your microneedling session. The number of needles influences how much pressure is needed, how much area is treated, and the overall comfort of the procedure.
Devices with a higher needle count—usually between 192 and 540—are commonly found in dermal rollers. They provide a wide coverage, creating shallower punctures, and making it more gentle. It is perfect for beginners, those with sensitive skin, or people doing microneedling at home.
A microneeding pen usually contains fewer needles, around 12-36. It offers deeper, more targeted penetration, making it more effective for microneedling to improve pigmentation, acne scars, or deep wrinkles. Fewer needle injections are more intense since each needle applies more pressure before penetrating the skin.
Microneedling needle safety tips for better microneedling outcomes
Microneedling works by producing precise, tiny injuries on the skin’s surface to trigger natural healing. Without emphasizing safety, you are more likely to experience irritation, infections, or long-term damage. Here are safety tips associated with microneedling needles.
1. Choose the right needle depth and gauge that suits your goal.
From what we discussed earlier, you can now easily identify which needle depth and gauge suits you, depending on the goal that you want to achieve. The use of the wrong depth and gauge can lead to discomfort or skin damage.
This choice ensures that your microneedling device delivers results safely. If you are a beginner or doubting which choice to make, I'll recommend that you start with a shallow depth and a thinner needle for a microneedling face routine and leave deeper and thicker treatments to professionals.
2. Always ensure that your microneedle is sanitized before use.
Before using your microneedle device, be it a microneedling pen or a dermal roller, ensure that the needles are sterile. Microneedle equipment that is contaminated can lead to infection and scarring, especially on sensitive microneedling facial areas. Ensure that your reusable tool is thoroughly sanitized with 70% isopropyl alcohol and stored in a clean case.
3. Never share your microneedling device.
Sharing a microneedling device is like sharing a toothbrush at home — it should be personal. Sharing a microneedling needle increases the risk of bacteria, viruses, or skin infections.
Whether using a microneedling pen or a dermal roller, the fine needles produce small punctures in the skin. Therefore, contamination and transmission of skin infections can be very serious if they are shared. Ensure that you keep your microneedling pen or roller personal and sanitized.
4. Avoid the use of harsh products before treatment.
Harsh products such as exfoliates, retinoids like retin-A or tretinoin, AHAs/BHAs such as glycolic acid or salicylic acid, and vitamin C serums, should be avoided at least 2-3 days before your microneedling session.
These products can increase skin sensitivity and may lead to dryness or irritation. Applying them and proceeding with microneedling may cause excessive redness, chemical burns, and increase the risk of inflammation, peeling, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
Avoid this so that you don't end up looking for answers on how to fix microneedling damage instead of enjoying your transformed, glowing skin.
5. Follow post-microneedling care instructions.
Take note that your skin is in a vulnerable, repair mode after microneedling. Therefore, following all the post-microneeding care like avoiding sun exposure, applying makeup, and other active ingredients like AHAs and retinol for at least 2-3 days after the microneedling application is essential
It is only recommended to apply serums like hyaluronic acid and SPF to reduce irritation and boost healing. Other post-micro needing care includes keeping your skin hydrated with ingredients like ceramides, aloe vera, or panthenol. Apply gentle pressure while cleaning your skin, too.
Avoid intense workouts, steam rooms, and hot showers. Avoid picking, touching, and scratching. And ensure you are sleeping on a clean pillowcase. By following these skin care tips, you are ensuring healthier skin.
6. Avoid overdoing the microneedling process.
When using a shallow treatment of 0.25-0.5mm, applying it once a week is safe. For deeper treatments of 0.75-1.0mm, apply it once every 3-4 weeks. Overusing a microneedle device more than what is recommended damages the skin barrier and leads to scarring. Always use as recommended by your cosmetics doctor.
7. Always use the right pressure during the application.
When using a microneedling device, gentle and even pressure should be applied all through. For those wondering, does microneedling hurt? It depends on the amount of pressure used. Therefore, use gentle pressure.
Don't be caught up in words such as, “If I press harder, the microneedling needles will go deeper and maybe work much better,” or “A little pain means that it's working.” Although these terms might seem reasonable to many, they are inaccurate. Always remember it is not about intensity but consistency and precision.
8. Ensure that you time your session properly.
A typical microneedling procedure takes between 20 to 60 minutes, based on the size of the area being treated.
Spending too little or too much time on one section can lead to skin irritation. Also, rushing can lead to uneven results, missed treatment zones, and an increased risk of mistakes. Staying too long in one area can lead to over-treatment, prolonged healing, and increased pain.
Therefore, stick to a steady pace, don't rush, and avoid spending a long time in one spot for safe, consistent results.
9. Always inspect your device for damage before usage.
Before any microneedling device usage, examine your microneedling needles for signs of wear, like bent, rusty, or dull tips, even when the tool looks new. Using damaged microneedling equipment can tear the skin and lead to long-term issues like infections, delayed healing, and scarring.
You can inspect your microneedling needles by using a bright light and a magnifying glass when suitable. When you notice these signs, or you are doubting it, you can just discard the needle or replace the cartridge, or the roller.
How to fix microneedling damage
This depends on the type and severity of the issue, but generally, the use of the right skincare approach can help reduce long-term effects. Let's break down how to treat common types of microneedling damage.
● Stop all microneedling procedures: Do this when you notice persistent redness, swelling, burning, or irritation. Discontinuing microneedling allows your skin to fully repair and restore itself.
● Soothe your skin right away: this is by applying cool compressions to reduce inflammation. Use calming serums or creams like aloe vera, panthenol, and Centella Asiatica.
● Rebuild the skin barrier: Use products that restore and protect the skin barrier. This is by the use of hyaluronic acid to keep you hydrated, ceramides to restore the skin wall, and cholesterol to hold the skin cells together. Apply 2-3 times a day after cleaning your face.
When you have signs of infection, scarring, keloids, persistent dark spots, and texture changes, consult a professional. Your provider might suggest using topical steroids, antibiotics, or advanced treatments such as laser therapy to address any lasting effects.
Conclusion
Microneedling is a fantastic non-surgical cosmetic way of skin rejuvenation. And, understanding the appropriate microneedling depth, gauge, and safety tips is key to achieving the best results.
The road to maintaining the best of your skin and a confident look isn’t always easy. You must be ready to embrace the understanding of what you are going into, and ready for the consequences through the journey to your refreshing look.
To have the best outcome from a microneedling treatment, you should first be clear about what you want. Understand the different depths and gauges of microneedling suitable for your goal. Then, know the safety tips to ensure that your health comes first. If you have achieved these steps, then you are good to go.
Moreover, during the recovery period, you should get quality products to enhance healing. Always opt for FDA-approved products to enhance safety.
